ASPNS Bibliography 12: Dye & Textile History


The contribution of Dr Allan Hall to this section is gratefully acknowledged.


12. Dye and Textile History
(For works on specific dye and textile plants, see Section 5.10).

12.1 Dye and Pigment History

12.1.1 Journals

Dyes in History and Archaeology (1988-) [For previous title, see Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles below]
Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles (1982-7) [For later title, see Dyes in History and Archaeology above]
Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists

12.1.2 Reference Sources

Cardon, D., Guide des teintures naturelles (Lausanne, 1990)
Ferguson, E.S., Bibliography of the History of Technology (London, 1968) [includes dyeing]
Hall, A.R., 'A Survey of Palaeobotanical Evidence for Dyeing and Mordanting from British Archaeological Excavations', in 'Quaternary Stratigraphy and Palaeoecology', edited by C. Turner and P. Gibbard, p. 635-40, Quaternary Science Review 15 (1996)
Laurie, A.G., A Bibliography of Dyeing and Textile Printing Comprising a List of Books from the Sixteenth Century to the Present Time (London, 1949)
Ponting, K.G., A Dictionary of Dyes and Dyeing (London, 1980)
Schweppe, H., Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe: Vorkommen, Verwendung, Nachweis (Landsberg/Lech, 1993)

12.1.3 General Works

Bolton, Eileen M., Lichens for Vegetable Dyeing (London, 1960)
Brunello, Franco, The Art of Dyeing in the History of Mankind (Vicenza, 1973)
Celoria, F., 'Archaeology and Dyestuffs', Science and Archaeology 6 (1971), 15-39
Christensen, H., Laerebok i Farvning med Planter, 5th edition (Oslo, 1935)
Engelstad, H., 'Plantefarvingens Historie i Norge', Norsk Billedvev, 1550-1800, by T.B. Kielland (1953), p. 103-11 and 117-8
Fraser, J., Traditional Scottish Dyes (Edinburgh, 1983)
Garland, H.E., ed., 'Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles', Summary of Talks, 6th Meeting, the University of Leeds, September 1987 (1988)
Grierson, S., The Colour Cauldron (Perth, 1986)
Grierson, S., 'Vegetable Dyes of Scotland', Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 100 (1984), 209-11
Hall, Allan R. and Philippa Tomlinson, 'Archaeological Records of Dye Plants, an Update, With a Note on Fullers' Teasels', Dyes in History and Archaeology 8 (1990), 19-21
Hofmann, R., 'Färbepflanzen und Färbedrogen: Verwendung in Europa und Österreich Einst und Jetzt', Beiträge zur Waidtagung 4/5.4 (1993), p. 37-48 + appendices
Horsfall, R.S. and L.G. Lawrie, The Dyeing of Textile Fibres (London, 1946)
Hübner, J., 'A Contribution to the History of Dyeing', Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 23 (1913), 344-57
Hübner, J., 'A Contribution to the History of Dyeing with Special Reference to Scotland', Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 24 (1914), 211-28
Hübner, J., 'Early History of Dyeing', Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists Jubilee issue (1934), 1-6
Larsen, C., Farvning med Plantefarvestoffer (1933)
Linder, J., Svensk Färg-Konst med Inländska Örter, Gräs, Blommor, Blad, Löf, Barkar, Wäxter och Mineralier, second edition (1749)
Mahon, B., 'Traditional Dyestuffs in Ireland', Gold Under the Furze: Studies in Folk Tradition, edited by A. Gailey and D. O h'Ogain (1983), p. 115-28
Meldola, R., 'Vegetable Colouring-Matters Used as Dyeing Materials in the Scotch Highlands', Essex Naturalist 12 (1901), 45
Nylænd, J., Norske Plantefargar (Christiania, 1905)
Nyrop, C., Danske Farvere (Copenhagen, 1900)
Perkin, A.G. and A.E. Everest, The Natural Organic Colouring Matters(London, 1918)
Plowright, Charles B., 'British Dye-Plants', Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society 26 (1901), 452-4
Plowright, Charles B., 'On the Tinctorial Properties of Our British Dye Plants', Norfolk and Norwich Naturalists' Society 7 (1902), 386
Ponting, K.G., 'Important Natural Dyes of History', Industrial Archaeology Review 2 (1978), 154-9
Ross, C., 'Studies in the History of Dyeing' (Ph.D thesis, University of London, 1946)
Taylor, G.W., 'New Light on Our Colourful Past', Current Archaeology 88 (1983), 153
Thurstan, V., The Use of Vegetable Dyes, fourteenth edition (London, 1975)
Tomlinson, Philippa and Allan R. Hall, 'Progress in Palaeobotanical Studies of Dye Plants, 1983/4', Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles: Summary of Talks: 3rd Meeting, York Archaeological Trust, September 1984, edited by H.E. Dalrymple (Edinburgh, 1985)
Valentiner, Regitze, Plantefarvning (1962)
Walton, Penelope and George Taylor, 'The Characterisation of Dyes in Textiles from Archaeological Excavations, Chromatography and Analysis (June 1991), 5-7

12.1.4 Prehistoric Dyes and Pigments
(Vegetable dyes and dyeing processes of northern Europe before and beyond the Roman Empire)

Bender Jorgensen, L. and P. Walton, 'Dyes and Fleecetypes in Prehistoric Textiles from Scandinavia and Germany', Journal of Danish Archaeology 5 (1986), 177-88
Hiorth, J., Undersogelser af Forhistorisk Uld og Toirester (Stavanger, 1908) [Iron Age to Migration period]

12.1.5 Ancient World Dyes and Pigments

Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, Pigments et colorants de l'Antiquité et du Moyen Âge (Paris, 1990)
Faber, G., 'Dyeing in Greece', CIBA Review 9 (1938), 284-90
Faber, G., 'The Roman Dyers', CIBA Review 9 (1938), 291-4
Forbes, R.J., Studies in Ancient Technology, vol. 4 (Leiden, 1964)
Leggett, William Ferguson, Ancient and Medieval Dyes (New York, 1944)
Lillie, R.D., 'The Red Dyes Used by Ancient Dyers: their Probable Identity', Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (1979), 57-61
Taylor, George W., 'Reds and Purples: from the Classical World to Pre-Conquest Britain', Textiles in Northern Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987, edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990), p. 37-46

12.1.6 Medieval Dyes and Pigments

Bugge, A., Studier over de Norske Byers Selvstyre og Handel for Hanseaternes Tid (Christiania, 1899) [includes lichens]
Bugge, A., Vesterlandenes Indflydelse paa Nordboernes og Saerlig Nordmaendenes Ydre Kultur, Levesaet og Samfundsforhold i Vikingetiden (Christiania, 1904) [includes lichens]
Casselman, Karen Diadick, 'Norse Lichen Dyes', Handwoven (September/October 1996), 48-50
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, Pigments et colorants de l'Antiquité et du Moyen Âge (Paris, 1990)
Danstrup, J., et al., Kulturhistorisk Leksikon for Nordisk Middelalder fra Vikingetid til Reformationstid, 22 vols. (1956-78) [dyeing, p. 171-82)
De Poerck, G., La draperie médiévale en Flandre et en Artois: technique et terminologie, 3 vols (Bruges, 1951)
Espinas, G., La draperie dans la Flandre Française au Moyen Age, 2 vols (Paris, 1923)
Hiorth, J., Undersogelser af Forhistorisk Uld og Toirester (Stavanger, 1908) [Iron Age to Migration period]
Hofenk-De Graaff, J., 'The Chemistry of Red Dyestuffs in Medieval and Early Modern Europe', Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson, edited by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting (London, 1983), p. 71-9
Leggett, William Ferguson, Ancient and Medieval Dyes (New York, 1944)
Leix, Alfred, 'Dyeing and Dyers' Guilds in Mediaeval Craftsmanship', CIBA Review 1 (1937), 10-16
Leix, Alfred, 'Dyes of the Middle Ages', CIBA Review 1 (1937), 19-21
Leix, Alfred, 'Medieval Dye Markets in Europe', CIBA Review 10 (1938), 324-9
Neuburger, M.C., 'Medieval Dyeing Technique', CIBA Review 9 (1938), 337-40
Ploss, E.E., Ein Buch von alten Farben: Technologie der Textilfarben im Mittelalter mit einem Ausblick auf die festen Farben (Heidelberg, 1962)
Swanson, H., Medieval Artisans (Oxford, 1989)
Taylor, George W., 'Detection and Identification of Dyes on Anglo-Scandinavian Textiles', Studies in Conservation 28 (1983), 153-60
Taylor, George W., 'Reds and Purples: from the Classical World to Pre-Conquest Britain', Textiles in Northern Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987, edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990), p. 37-46
Tomlinson, P., 'Use of Vegetative Remains in the Identification of Dyeplants from Waterlogged 9th-10th Century A.D. Deposits at York', Journal of Archaeological Science 12 (1985), 269-83
Walton, Penelope, 'Dyeplants from Viking York', Antiquity 58 (1984), 58-60
Walton, Penelope, 'Dyes of the Viking Age: a Summary of Recent Work', Dyes in History and Archaeology 7 (1988), 14-20
Wise, H., 'Mittelalterliche Rezepte zur Färberei sowie zur Herstellung von Farben und Fleckwasser', Niederdeutsches Jahrbuch 81 (1958), 49-58

12.1.7 Early Modern Dyes and Pigments

Hofenk-De Graaff, J., 'The Chemistry of Red Dyestuffs in Medieval and Early Modern Europe', Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson, edited by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting (London, 1983), p. 71-9
Moreton, P., 'Celia Fiennes and the Dyers of Exeter', The Dyer 103.3 (1963), 159-60 [late 17th century]
Petty, William, 'An Apparatus to the History of Common Practices of Dyeing', The History of the Royal Society of London, by T. Sprat, third edition (London, 1722), p. 284-306
Rutty, J., Indigenous Vegetables Useful in Dying [sic] and Painting (1772) [Ireland]
Wilson, J., An Essay on Light and Colours and What Colouring Matters are that Dye Cotton and Linen (1786)




12.2 Textiles and Clothing

12.2.1 Journals

Costume

12.2.2 Reference Sources

Siegelaub, S., ed., Bibliographica Textilia Historiae: Towards a General Bibliography on the History of Textiles Based on the Library and Archives of the Center for Social Research on Old Textiles (CSROT) (New York, 1997)

12.2.3 General Works

Bender and Munksgaard, Archaeological Textiles in Northern Europe (1992)
Falk, H., Altwestnordische Kleiderkunde (Christiania, 1919)
Jorgensen, Bender, North European Textiles until A.D. 1000

12.2.4 Ancient World Textiles and Clothing

Forbes, R.J., Studies in Ancient Technology, vol. 4 (Leiden, 1964)
Wild, J.P., Textile Manufacture in the Northern Roman Provinces (Cambridge, 1970)
Wilson, L.M., The Clothing of the Ancient Romans (Baltimore, 1938)

12.2.5 Medieval Textiles and Clothing

Crowfoot, Elisabeth, 'Textile Fragments from 'Relic Boxes' in Anglo-Saxon Graves', Textiles in Northern Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987, edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990), p. 47-56
Ingstad, A.S., 'The Functional Textiles from the Oseberg Ship', Textilsymposium (Neumünster, 1982), p. 85-95
Knörzer, K-H., 'Textilpflanzenfunde aus dem mittelalterlichen Aachen', Decheniana 137 (1984), p. 226-33
Owen-Crocker, Gale R., Dress in Anglo-Saxon England (Manchester, 1986)
Stevens, Helen M., 'Maaseik Reconstructed: a Practical Investigation and Interpretation of 8th-Century Embroidery Techniques', Textiles in Northern Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987, edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990), p. 57-60
Stroebe, L.L., 'Die altenglischen Kleidernamen: eine kulturgeschichtlich-etymologische Untersuchung' (Dissertation, University of Heidelberg (Leipzig, 1904)




12.3 Specific Locations
(Articles on textile evidence often include information on dyes, so this section includes both.)

12.3.1 King's Lynn

Clarke, H. and A. Carter, Excavations in King's Lynn, 1963-70 (London, 1977) [includes dyer's greenweed]

12.3.2 London

Crowfoot, E., F. Pritchard and K. Staniland, Textiles and Clothing, c.1150-c.1450 (London, 1992)

12.3.3 Morning Thorpe

Crowfoot, E., 'Textiles', The Anglo-Saxon Cemetery at Morning Thorpe, Norfolk, by Barbara Green, Andrew Rogerson and Susan G. White (Gressenhall, 1987), vol. 1, p. 171-4

12.3.4. Spong Hill

Crowfoot, Elisabeth and Julie Jones, 'The Textiles', The Anglo-Saxon Cemetery at Spong Hill, North Elmham, Part III: Catalogue of Inhumations, by Catherine Hills, Kenneth Penn and Robert Rickett (Gressenhall, 1984), p. 17-28

12.3.5 Sutton Hoo

Crowfoot, Elisabeth, 'The Textiles', The Sutton Hoo Ship Burial, by Rupert Bruce-Mitford, vol. 3.1 edited by Angela Care Evans (London, 1983), p. 409-79

12.3.6 Winchester

Crowfoot, Elisabeth, 'Textiles', Object and Economy in Medieval Winchester, by Martin Biddle (Oxford, 1990), vol. 2, p. 467-94

12.3.7 York

Hall, Allan R., 'Evidence of Dyeplants from Viking Age York and Medieval Beverley', Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles 2 (1983), 25
Hall, Allan R., et al., 'Dyeplants from Viking York', Antiquity 58 (1984), 58-60
Hall, Allan R. and Philippa Tomlinson, 'A Dyeing Art', Interim 10.1 (1984), 21-5 [York]
Taylor, George W., 'All the Colours of the Rainbow?', Interim 8.3, 26-8
Tomlinson, Philippa, 'Use of Vegetative Remains in the Identification of Dye Plants from Waterlogged 9th-10th Century A.D. Deposits at York', Journal of Archaeological Science 12.4 (1985), 269-83
Walton, Penelope, 'Textile Production at Coppergate, York: Anglo-Saxon or Viking?', Textiles in Northern Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987, edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990), p. 61-72
Walton, Penelope, Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fibre from 16-22 Coppergate (London, 1989)
Walton Rogers, Penelope, Textile Production at 16-22 Coppergate (York, 1997)



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