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ASPNS Bibliography 12: Dye & Textile History
The contribution of Dr Allan Hall to this section is gratefully acknowledged.
- 12. Dye and Textile History
(For works on specific dye and textile plants, see Section
5.10).
- 12.1 Dye and Pigment History
- 12.1.1 Journals
- Dyes in History and Archaeology (1988-) [For previous
title, see Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles
below]
Dyes on Historical and Archaeological Textiles (1982-7)
[For later title, see Dyes in History and Archaeology
above]
Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists
- 12.1.2 Reference Sources
- Cardon, D., Guide des teintures naturelles (Lausanne,
1990)
Ferguson, E.S., Bibliography of the History of Technology
(London, 1968) [includes dyeing]
Hall, A.R., 'A Survey of Palaeobotanical Evidence for Dyeing
and Mordanting from British Archaeological Excavations',
in 'Quaternary Stratigraphy and Palaeoecology', edited by
C. Turner and P. Gibbard, p. 635-40, Quaternary Science
Review 15 (1996)
Laurie, A.G., A Bibliography of Dyeing and Textile Printing
Comprising a List of Books from the Sixteenth Century to
the Present Time (London, 1949)
Ponting, K.G., A Dictionary of Dyes and Dyeing (London,
1980)
Schweppe, H., Handbuch der Naturfarbstoffe: Vorkommen,
Verwendung, Nachweis (Landsberg/Lech, 1993)
- 12.1.3 General Works
- Bolton, Eileen M., Lichens for Vegetable Dyeing
(London, 1960)
Brunello, Franco, The Art of Dyeing in the History of
Mankind (Vicenza, 1973)
Celoria, F., 'Archaeology and Dyestuffs', Science and
Archaeology 6 (1971), 15-39
Christensen, H., Laerebok i Farvning med Planter,
5th edition (Oslo, 1935)
Engelstad, H., 'Plantefarvingens Historie i Norge', Norsk
Billedvev, 1550-1800, by T.B. Kielland (1953), p. 103-11
and 117-8
Fraser, J., Traditional Scottish Dyes (Edinburgh,
1983)
Garland, H.E., ed., 'Dyes on Historical and Archaeological
Textiles', Summary of Talks, 6th Meeting, the University
of Leeds, September 1987 (1988)
Grierson, S., The Colour Cauldron (Perth, 1986)
Grierson, S., 'Vegetable Dyes of Scotland', Journal of
the Society of Dyers and Colourists 100 (1984), 209-11
Hall, Allan R. and Philippa Tomlinson, 'Archaeological Records
of Dye Plants, an Update, With a Note on Fullers' Teasels',
Dyes in History and Archaeology 8 (1990), 19-21
Hofmann, R., 'Färbepflanzen und Färbedrogen: Verwendung
in Europa und Österreich Einst und Jetzt', Beiträge
zur Waidtagung 4/5.4 (1993), p. 37-48 + appendices
Horsfall, R.S. and L.G. Lawrie, The Dyeing of Textile
Fibres (London, 1946)
Hübner, J., 'A Contribution to the History of Dyeing',
Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists 23
(1913), 344-57
Hübner, J., 'A Contribution to the History of Dyeing
with Special Reference to Scotland', Journal of the Society
of Dyers and Colourists 24 (1914), 211-28
Hübner, J., 'Early History of Dyeing', Journal of
the Society of Dyers and Colourists Jubilee issue (1934),
1-6
Larsen, C., Farvning med Plantefarvestoffer (1933)
Linder, J., Svensk Färg-Konst med Inländska
Örter, Gräs, Blommor, Blad, Löf, Barkar,
Wäxter och Mineralier, second edition (1749)
Mahon, B., 'Traditional Dyestuffs in Ireland', Gold Under
the Furze: Studies in Folk Tradition, edited by A. Gailey
and D. O h'Ogain (1983), p. 115-28
Meldola, R., 'Vegetable Colouring-Matters Used as Dyeing
Materials in the Scotch Highlands', Essex Naturalist
12 (1901), 45
Nylænd, J., Norske Plantefargar (Christiania,
1905)
Nyrop, C., Danske Farvere (Copenhagen, 1900)
Perkin, A.G. and A.E. Everest, The Natural Organic Colouring
Matters(London, 1918)
Plowright, Charles B., 'British Dye-Plants', Journal
of the Royal Horticultural Society 26 (1901), 452-4
Plowright, Charles B., 'On the Tinctorial Properties of
Our British Dye Plants', Norfolk and Norwich Naturalists'
Society 7 (1902), 386
Ponting, K.G., 'Important Natural Dyes of History', Industrial
Archaeology Review 2 (1978), 154-9
Ross, C., 'Studies in the History of Dyeing' (Ph.D thesis,
University of London, 1946)
Taylor, G.W., 'New Light on Our Colourful Past', Current
Archaeology 88 (1983), 153
Thurstan, V., The Use of Vegetable Dyes, fourteenth
edition (London, 1975)
Tomlinson, Philippa and Allan R. Hall, 'Progress in Palaeobotanical
Studies of Dye Plants, 1983/4', Dyes on Historical and
Archaeological Textiles: Summary of Talks: 3rd Meeting,
York Archaeological Trust, September 1984, edited by
H.E. Dalrymple (Edinburgh, 1985)
Valentiner, Regitze, Plantefarvning (1962)
Walton, Penelope and George Taylor, 'The Characterisation
of Dyes in Textiles from Archaeological Excavations, Chromatography
and Analysis (June 1991), 5-7
- 12.1.4 Prehistoric Dyes and Pigments
(Vegetable dyes and dyeing processes of northern Europe before
and beyond the Roman Empire)
- Bender Jorgensen, L. and P. Walton, 'Dyes and Fleecetypes
in Prehistoric Textiles from Scandinavia and Germany', Journal
of Danish Archaeology 5 (1986), 177-88
Hiorth, J., Undersogelser af Forhistorisk Uld og Toirester
(Stavanger, 1908) [Iron Age to Migration period]
- 12.1.5 Ancient World Dyes and Pigments
- Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, Pigments
et colorants de l'Antiquité et du Moyen Âge
(Paris, 1990)
Faber, G., 'Dyeing in Greece', CIBA Review 9 (1938),
284-90
Faber, G., 'The Roman Dyers', CIBA Review 9 (1938),
291-4
Forbes, R.J., Studies in Ancient Technology, vol.
4 (Leiden, 1964)
Leggett, William Ferguson, Ancient and Medieval Dyes
(New York, 1944)
Lillie, R.D., 'The Red Dyes Used by Ancient Dyers: their
Probable Identity', Journal of the Society of Dyers and
Colourists (1979), 57-61
Taylor, George W., 'Reds and Purples: from the Classical
World to Pre-Conquest Britain', Textiles in Northern
Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May
1987, edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild
(London, 1990), p. 37-46
- 12.1.6 Medieval Dyes and Pigments
- Bugge, A., Studier over de Norske Byers Selvstyre og
Handel for Hanseaternes Tid (Christiania, 1899) [includes
lichens]
Bugge, A., Vesterlandenes Indflydelse paa Nordboernes
og Saerlig Nordmaendenes Ydre Kultur, Levesaet og Samfundsforhold
i Vikingetiden (Christiania, 1904) [includes lichens]
Casselman, Karen Diadick, 'Norse Lichen Dyes', Handwoven
(September/October 1996), 48-50
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, Pigments
et colorants de l'Antiquité et du Moyen Âge
(Paris, 1990)
Danstrup, J., et al., Kulturhistorisk Leksikon
for Nordisk Middelalder fra Vikingetid til Reformationstid,
22 vols. (1956-78) [dyeing, p. 171-82)
De Poerck, G., La draperie médiévale en
Flandre et en Artois: technique et terminologie, 3 vols
(Bruges, 1951)
Espinas, G., La draperie dans la Flandre Française
au Moyen Age, 2 vols (Paris, 1923)
Hiorth, J., Undersogelser af Forhistorisk Uld og Toirester
(Stavanger, 1908) [Iron Age to Migration period]
Hofenk-De Graaff, J., 'The Chemistry of Red Dyestuffs in
Medieval and Early Modern Europe', Cloth and Clothing
in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson,
edited by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting (London, 1983), p.
71-9
Leggett, William Ferguson, Ancient and Medieval Dyes
(New York, 1944)
Leix, Alfred, 'Dyeing and Dyers' Guilds in Mediaeval Craftsmanship',
CIBA Review 1 (1937), 10-16
Leix, Alfred, 'Dyes of the Middle Ages', CIBA Review
1 (1937), 19-21
Leix, Alfred, 'Medieval Dye Markets in Europe', CIBA
Review 10 (1938), 324-9
Neuburger, M.C., 'Medieval Dyeing Technique', CIBA Review
9 (1938), 337-40
Ploss, E.E., Ein Buch von alten Farben: Technologie der
Textilfarben im Mittelalter mit einem Ausblick auf die festen
Farben (Heidelberg, 1962)
Swanson, H., Medieval Artisans (Oxford, 1989)
Taylor, George W., 'Detection and Identification of Dyes
on Anglo-Scandinavian Textiles', Studies in Conservation
28 (1983), 153-60
Taylor, George W., 'Reds and Purples: from the Classical
World to Pre-Conquest Britain', Textiles in Northern
Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May
1987, edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild
(London, 1990), p. 37-46
Tomlinson, P., 'Use of Vegetative Remains in the Identification
of Dyeplants from Waterlogged 9th-10th Century A.D. Deposits
at York', Journal of Archaeological Science 12 (1985),
269-83
Walton, Penelope, 'Dyeplants from Viking York', Antiquity
58 (1984), 58-60
Walton, Penelope, 'Dyes of the Viking Age: a Summary of
Recent Work', Dyes in History and Archaeology 7 (1988),
14-20
Wise, H., 'Mittelalterliche Rezepte zur Färberei sowie
zur Herstellung von Farben und Fleckwasser', Niederdeutsches
Jahrbuch 81 (1958), 49-58
- 12.1.7 Early Modern Dyes and Pigments
- Hofenk-De Graaff, J., 'The Chemistry of Red Dyestuffs
in Medieval and Early Modern Europe', Cloth and Clothing
in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E.M. Carus-Wilson,
edited by N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting (London, 1983), p.
71-9
Moreton, P., 'Celia Fiennes and the Dyers of Exeter', The
Dyer 103.3 (1963), 159-60 [late 17th century]
Petty, William, 'An Apparatus to the History of Common Practices
of Dyeing', The History of the Royal Society of London,
by T. Sprat, third edition (London, 1722), p. 284-306
Rutty, J., Indigenous Vegetables Useful in Dying [sic]
and Painting (1772) [Ireland]
Wilson, J., An Essay on Light and Colours and What Colouring
Matters are that Dye Cotton and Linen (1786)
- 12.2 Textiles and Clothing
- 12.2.1 Journals
- Costume
- 12.2.2 Reference Sources
- Siegelaub, S., ed., Bibliographica Textilia Historiae:
Towards a General Bibliography on the History of Textiles
Based on the Library and Archives of the Center for Social
Research on Old Textiles (CSROT) (New York, 1997)
- 12.2.3 General Works
- Bender and Munksgaard, Archaeological Textiles in Northern
Europe (1992)
Falk, H., Altwestnordische Kleiderkunde (Christiania,
1919)
Jorgensen, Bender, North European Textiles until A.D.
1000
- 12.2.4 Ancient World Textiles and Clothing
- Forbes, R.J., Studies in Ancient Technology, vol.
4 (Leiden, 1964)
Wild, J.P., Textile Manufacture in the Northern Roman
Provinces (Cambridge, 1970)
Wilson, L.M., The Clothing of the Ancient Romans
(Baltimore, 1938)
- 12.2.5 Medieval Textiles and Clothing
- Crowfoot, Elisabeth, 'Textile Fragments from 'Relic Boxes'
in Anglo-Saxon Graves', Textiles in Northern Archaeology:
NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987,
edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990),
p. 47-56
Ingstad, A.S., 'The Functional Textiles from the Oseberg
Ship', Textilsymposium (Neumünster, 1982), p.
85-95
Knörzer, K-H., 'Textilpflanzenfunde aus dem mittelalterlichen
Aachen', Decheniana 137 (1984), p. 226-33
Owen-Crocker, Gale R., Dress in Anglo-Saxon England
(Manchester, 1986)
Stevens, Helen M., 'Maaseik Reconstructed: a Practical Investigation
and Interpretation of 8th-Century Embroidery Techniques',
Textiles in Northern Archaeology: NESAT III: Textile
Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987, edited by Penelope
Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990), p. 57-60
Stroebe, L.L., 'Die altenglischen Kleidernamen: eine kulturgeschichtlich-etymologische
Untersuchung' (Dissertation, University of Heidelberg (Leipzig,
1904)
- 12.3 Specific Locations
(Articles on textile evidence often include information on dyes,
so this section includes both.)
- 12.3.1 King's Lynn
- Clarke, H. and A. Carter, Excavations in King's Lynn,
1963-70 (London, 1977) [includes dyer's greenweed]
- 12.3.2 London
- Crowfoot, E., F. Pritchard and K. Staniland, Textiles
and Clothing, c.1150-c.1450 (London, 1992)
- 12.3.3 Morning Thorpe
- Crowfoot, E., 'Textiles', The Anglo-Saxon Cemetery
at Morning Thorpe, Norfolk, by Barbara Green, Andrew
Rogerson and Susan G. White (Gressenhall, 1987), vol. 1,
p. 171-4
- 12.3.4. Spong Hill
- Crowfoot, Elisabeth and Julie Jones, 'The Textiles', The
Anglo-Saxon Cemetery at Spong Hill, North Elmham, Part III:
Catalogue of Inhumations, by Catherine Hills, Kenneth
Penn and Robert Rickett (Gressenhall, 1984), p. 17-28
- 12.3.5 Sutton Hoo
- Crowfoot, Elisabeth, 'The Textiles', The Sutton Hoo
Ship Burial, by Rupert Bruce-Mitford, vol. 3.1 edited
by Angela Care Evans (London, 1983), p. 409-79
- 12.3.6 Winchester
- Crowfoot, Elisabeth, 'Textiles', Object and Economy
in Medieval Winchester, by Martin Biddle (Oxford, 1990),
vol. 2, p. 467-94
- 12.3.7 York
- Hall, Allan R., 'Evidence of Dyeplants from Viking Age
York and Medieval Beverley', Dyes on Historical and Archaeological
Textiles 2 (1983), 25
Hall, Allan R., et al., 'Dyeplants from Viking York',
Antiquity 58 (1984), 58-60
Hall, Allan R. and Philippa Tomlinson, 'A Dyeing Art', Interim
10.1 (1984), 21-5 [York]
Taylor, George W., 'All the Colours of the Rainbow?', Interim
8.3, 26-8
Tomlinson, Philippa, 'Use of Vegetative Remains in the Identification
of Dye Plants from Waterlogged 9th-10th Century A.D. Deposits
at York', Journal of Archaeological Science 12.4
(1985), 269-83
Walton, Penelope, 'Textile Production at Coppergate, York:
Anglo-Saxon or Viking?', Textiles in Northern Archaeology:
NESAT III: Textile Symposium in York, 6-9 May 1987,
edited by Penelope Walton and John-Peter Wild (London, 1990),
p. 61-72
Walton, Penelope, Textiles, Cordage and Raw Fibre from
16-22 Coppergate (London, 1989)
Walton Rogers, Penelope, Textile Production at 16-22
Coppergate (York, 1997)
ASPNS Bibliography contents
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